Masonry Magazine August 1965 Page. 11
There are two types, one much more costly than the other. The common type is felt paper, asphalt saturated, applied with hot tar. If this lies under water long enough, water is bound to penetrate, soften it and, under certain soil conditions, it will deteriorate. It is classified as good for minor water conditions, for short periods of control.
The second type, much more expensive, is multiple layers of glass fiber, saturated with asphalt, applied with hot tar. There is nothing in the glass fiber that can rot. A good workmanlike job, done with at least two membranes, gives long lasting protections. Inspect the walls carefully before the applicators start. Hot tar won't stick to a damp surface and water can find its way behind one of these membranes after a rain storm. If the water can get behind it, it will certainly find a crack to ooze into the basement and the whole water-proofing job has flopped. Be careful of the joints, too. Make sure they are generously overlapped and inspect the tarring when they are finished. This type of membrane has much more resilience and will give generously when the foundation settles and cracks. Properly applied, including that important layer over the bone dry footing, it can't be beat.
If you are expecting trouble because you've uncovered water problems in the excavation, it will pay you to look into the mineral "bentonite" as a water stopping agent. This is the low cost mineral used for almost thirty years for seepage control. If you have ever had to repair a leak in a foundation caused by a crack, you may have called a professional waterproofer. The dry product they poured in the hole and the liquid they pumped into position was "bentonite."
Don't fool around with the dry material yourself. It cost too much in labor to set forms, space them away from the wall mix the bentonite with sand and pour it in position. It is a good approach, but there's an easier way.
(continued on page 25)
Close up view showing the panels attached to the foundation wall. Note that there is a lap of at least one inch between panels. The back fill will hold the panels in place.
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