Masonry Magazine October 1983 Page. 26
NEW ORLEANS '84
continued from page 6
Touring the French Quarter today is a fascinating experience, and walking is the best way to do it. The Quarter remains much the same as it was 200 years ago when it was frequented by swashbuckling pirates and buccaneers, including the notorious Jean Lafitte. The only difference is that the historic and meticulously preserved old structures, still adorned with their slatted window shutters and lacy wrought ironwork, now house modern-day shops, boutiques, art galleries, antique stores, dining spots and cocktail lounges.
The Quarter's Royal, Chartres and Decatur Streets are traveled most during the day. At night, the big activity is on Bourbon Street, where the ever-present Dixieland beat is joined by the sounds of red-hot jazz. Bourbon Street was named for the royal family, and not the liquor, though plenty of it is consumed by the people who stroll up and down the street with drink in hand.
And if you really love music, don't overlook Preservation Hall. Here the greats, and those who played with the likes of Louis "Satchmo" Armstrong and Kid Thomas, jam the hottest music around. Preservation Hall serves up music-that's it. No drinks, no food, no air-conditioning, and precious few places to sit. But when the music starts, any missing creature comforts are soon forgotten.
After getting acquainted with the Quarter, a stroll over to Jackson Square the heart of old New Orleans-is a must. Originally called the Place d'Armes, it was the hub of the city, the seat of city government, the spot where the French and Spanish colonists centered their business and social life.
When Adrienne de Pauger, the engineer, laid out the town in 1721, he created this parade ground which has been the scene of Louisiana's most thrilling historical events. From a parade ground it was transformed into a garden and now stands as one of the most beautifully serene park sites in all urban American.
On the other side of the Square is the Cafe du Monde, where you can sit for hours over cafe au lait and beignets, and watch artists who hang their work on the iron-lace fence surrounding the square.
Cafe du Monde is at the foot of the French Market complex, which once was an open-air stall arrangement of poultry, fish and vegetable peddlers. The Market now is a series of renovated buildings with shops featuring pasta, fish, toys-you name it. As you stroll down the arcaded walkway you can watch women making pralines and savor the smells coming from the various bistros and restaurants which are part of the complex.
How about a slow-and-easy horse-and-buggy ride? It's a soothing, relaxing way to view the sights in New Orleans.
When you think of New Orleans, you naturally think of food, and especially seafood. It's among the best to be had anywhere. In almost every restaurant and a few of the oyster bars around town, the menu will list trout, redfish (which has forced Red Snapper off many menus), pompano, flounder, shrimp, oysters, crabs and, when in season, crawfish. And they can be prepared, seemingly, a thousand different ways.
Raw Louisiana oysters-considered to be one of the best-produced in the country are served year round and are a perfect pick-me-up at mid-afternoon. Shucked while you wait and dipped into a ketchup-horseradish sauce you make yourself, oysters can be the tonic you need to soothe away troubles. Especially when accompanied by crackers and an ice-cold Dixie Beer.
Elsewhere, the dog may be man's best friend, but when dining in New Orleans, it's the waiter. If you need help in deciphering the menu, just ask. New Orleans waiters are a breed like no other. They are helpful, patient, and your best friend in any restaurant. Treat them that way, and you'll get excellent service (if you are just a bit haughty, they'll out-do your act).
What's more, waiters in New Orleans are prone to "lagniappe" if they like you. Lagniappe simply means that they may give you 13 oysters instead of a dozen, or a taste of something new the chef is testing out today, free of charge of course.
Outstanding, succulent food, vibrant music, friendly, accommodating people these attributes typify the fascinating city of New Orleans. They will all be in place, ready and waiting, when the time rolls around for MCAA's 34th International Masonry Conference and Show, January 26-31. Keep tuned for more details, and plan to be there.
The St. Charles Avenue streetcar, one of the oldest continuously operated street railways in the world. It was designed and built by the Perley A. Thomas Car Co. of High Point, N.C., in 1923-24.