Masonry Magazine January 2017 Page. 42
The other down side with full bed veneer is the time it takes. As you know you can only go so high with fresh set veneer in a day. If you get greedy, the stone will make you pay by either moving out or falling down. You old school masons are still not buying it yet are you? We get it, because some years back neither did we.
Derek and I were purists, not interested in that thin stone. Then we did our first job, a gas fireplace insert that we couldn't use full veneer on because there was no way to support the weight. We took our time learning how to prep the right way and to get a feel for the stone. No chisel needed, just a chipping hammer and your thigh as your cutting table. When we finished that job, it hit us like a ton of bricks, forgive the pun. We had an epiphany! We veneered with real stone, didn't have to build a block support, had easy prep, worked inside in the middle of a Boston winter, and built a fireplace that looks like a full bed veneer in a quarter of the time. Sold!
As is the norm in our business, one job leads to the next. There are many options of thin stone veneer available: rounds, mosaic, ashlar, square, rectangular, and ledge. Most of the Quarries we worked with over the years started offering thin stone versions of their products and we jumped on that train and haven't looked back.
Derek and I have done almost every kind ofjob imaginable with thin stone, homes large and small. Steps, retaining walls, wood burning fireplaces, outdoor fireplaces, fire pits, pizza ovens, backsplashes, bathrooms, outdoor kitchens, and many other types of works I can't even remember. As of today it is a very rare occasion we would do a full bed job. You definitely would have to do some persuading to get us to even price it.
The most important part of every job is the prep work. Thin veneer is no different. The rule of thumb is masonry on masonry, no exceptions. You can veneer on cement board products in certain applications, but it is always a good idea to check with your local supplier and building inspector on codes in your area.
The first step always starts with a vapor barrier. Water and moisture are the things one has to prepare for. If we don't, there is a heavy price to pay. When you take pride in your work, you never want a call that a stone popped off, or even worse the whole thing came down. Deal with the moisture first. There are many products on the market that are made for thin veneer applications that do a great job and are easy to install. This is where your stone supplier will help you out,
and hopefully keep you updated to all the new products out in the market that can make you better at what you do.
The major road block on these water management systems is usually the price. Always remember: it is far less costly to do the job correctly the first time then to have to rectify a job. It is less costly not only in time and material, but in reputation as well. Learn as much as you are able to in regards to water management, both from the inside and the outside of the structure, you'll be thankful that you did.
Again, the rule of thumb is masonry on masonry as, "mortar to wood no good." If going over sheathing, then the next step is metal lathe. This will provide you something to adhere the scratch coat to. You want to make sure to use rust-resistant screws when it is attached, and there should be no flex. What I mean by that is if you push against it there should be no flex back or any loose sections. Take your time. When it's time for the scratch coat, use a Type S Mortar which has more strength than a Type N. Make sure to cover the lathe completely with no open areas or gaps.
When your scratch coat has had time to dry, you are ready to start setting your stone. There are options when it comes to deciding what to use to set the stone. Derek and I use Type S pre-mix with a latex additive. There are many mixes out there specifically designed for thin veneer, though some you can't use for jointing, so do your research. What you choose to use is up to you, because as we know every stone mason has certain ways to get the job done right (as long as it's done right).
Our goal on every thin veneer job we do is to make sure when we are done that it looks like a full bed veneer. Remember, we are working with real stone
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